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Marketing alone cannot save wool

18 Dec, 2008 09:32 AM
Marketing may be the savior for Australia’s shrinking wool industry but without true innovation its future is questionable.

Former head of CSIRO Textile and Fibre division, Nigel Johnson has warned the wool industry has a limited future if it relies on marketing without relevant research.

  • Researc h needed to keep wool competitive
  • New competition coming from biomass renewables
  • 2009 is the UN Year of the Natural Fibre

After 35 years of wool research he now works in the business unit of the national research organisation, after the textile and fibre division was folded into the larger Materials Science and Engineering division earlier this year.

"I may have a biased view but it is not sustainable to rely on marketing alone," Dr Johnson said.

"Yes, wool's natural, sustainable and renewable nature is a great selling point but there are other natural, renewable fibres now appearing through renewable biomass technology creating fibres from crops and bacteria."

Dr Johnson said fossil-based 'synthetic' fibres of the last 50 years would be superceded by these new "biomass renewables" over the next 50 years.

But he said it was the research innovations of the past that had kept wool competitive, despite being three to five times more expensive than synthetic commodity fibres and cotton.

He recalls how he joined the wool industry in the 1970s when fears the world was running out of oil excited opportunities for wool - a similar sentiment exists today.

2009 is the United Nations International Year of the Natural Fibre and a great opportunity for the Australian wool industry to capitalise on opportunities, according to Dr Johnson who said the issues the industry now faced now were similar to those 30 years ago.

"Making wool a positive experience is still the biggest and most promising areas for post farm research," Dr Johnson said.

"Next to skin comfort has come a long way but shape retention, machine washability and reducing chemical reliance in processing are still the big issues."

Dr Johnson said only $5 million would be spent on wool research this year at CSIRO from industry and taxpayer funding, down from $30 million in 1992-93, work that would struggle to keep up with increasing consumer expectations that apparel fibres had to be environmentally friendly and perform well.

As the new board of Australian Wool Innovation continues to slash projects, Dr Johnson urged the powers that be to keep an integrated research and marketing strategy involving both short and long term research projects; close alliances between funders and researchers; better international collaboration with research; and to throw away the contestability model of research finding which he said had been so wasteful.

Meanwhile, this week the Sheep CRC announced it had made a "flying start" to a number of its wool research projects.

Deputy chief executive Graham Truscott said next to skin comfort, handle and softness as well as natural whiteness and photostability for seasonal knitwear were the critical areas of research.

"We are working on the innovative 'prickle-meter', which will enable manufacturers to objectively assess the relative comfort of fabrics and garments and this is now entering the commercialisation phase."

Mr Truscott also said genetic information from the Information Nucleus was helping to fast-track Australian Sheep Breeding Values to help ram selection to assist in improving many important processing traits, with the expectation these values would be in use for the 2009 breeding season.

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The answer to the wool market is relativly simple. Growers need to grow the wool that will process cheaper and happens to be what the consumer wants.

It is all very well to engineer the next-to-skin properties into wool, but it is expensive.

The "prickle" is only a small part of comfort. The research has been done, funded by AWI, but chosen to be ignored.

Posted by woolman, 19/12/2008 11:18:11 AM
Nigel, pointing out that the Emperor has no clothes is a brave move.
Posted by Sir George, 19/12/2008 2:02:08 PM
Cheapo prices and next-to-skin comfort are not the "be all" and "end all" they're often touted to be.

America two years ago patented an all-natural technology that allows even stout fibers to be used next-to-skin, and after scouring, stout fibers yield more than slender fibres, like Merino.

I have worn these no-itch, no-shrink stout-fibre items. They are everything they're claimed to be. They're highly prized too, by soldiers in Afghanistan, the "guinea pig" testing-ground for the goods.

Constantly treating wool with varnishes and moth-killers isn't winning the favor we all think it should. After all, is it still a natural fiber then?

And unless cynical, money-grubbing professional sympathists like PETA are attacked and put on the defensive, we will always cower and recede at their screechy accusations. A defensive war can never be won, only prolonged.

We must face reality that wool is not a "commodity" but a luxury, and a darn pleasant one.

"Efficiency" is ever the sole urban answer to rural hard times - but when prices drop, not enough more product gets sold to cover the loss. "More research is needed" is always the hopeful claim of a scientist in fear of losing his job. Yet more research has been conducted in the past 50 years than ever before, yet wool consumption fell in most of those years.

"Marketing" is not "producing an item and selling it" as many of our number seem to think, but "finding a need and filling it."

Do a Google search on "think stink to sell more wool" after Saturday, January 3, 2009 for an eye-opener. The highly successful speaker of the US House of Representatives in the 1980s, Tip O'Neill said, "All politics is local." Ultimately, so is all marketing.

Macro-markets may not be the right venue for wool movement, but some kind of marketing will sell product. So the wool biz had better start looking at the reasons people buy - or don't buy - a textile, to see what consumer needs can be supplied, before the last bits of wool processing infrastructure are lost.

Wool must pay its production, harvest, processing, transportation, storage and retail costs. Not all of that is the producer's responsibility, but we generally get hit with the bill for it all.

A race to the cheapest rock-bottom price isn't going to keep growers, shearers, classers and manufacturers in business.

Posted by UppityNegro, 2/01/2009 5:54:15 PM

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