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Will Gourmet Farmer win the public over?

Before Christmas I wrote about why Australian agriculture needs its own version of River Cottage to help explain farm practices and food production to the increasingly critical urban masses.

Well, it may have found it in a new program on SBS, Gourmet Farmer.

Having watched the first two episodes of the series, there is a lot to like about the show.

It follows the adventures of Matthew Evans, formerly the much-feared food critic from the Sydney Morning Herald, who has taken a 12-month tree change adventure to a small block in Tasmania.

Evans background is advantageous to the show - and agriculture generally - for three reasons. First, he is an authority on good food, so the food-loving chattering classes should at least have some interest in and respect for his opinions about how quality food is produced.

Second, he has absolutely no idea about farming, which means everything he attempts on his block is spelled out in the most basic terms, which is ideal for educating the public about some of the practices a farmer must perform.

Third, his self-depracating humour and understated friendly demeanour makes him a likeable figure to watch, and a refreshing change from the over-the-top and in-your-face celebs found elsewhere on the box.

That said, (and this could probably be listed as a fourth positive towards appealing to metro Australia) he is a bit of a softer touch than your average farmer (and foul-mouthed chef for that matter), and does have a tendency to describe everything as "beautiful, just beautiful".

But all of this combines to produce a show that many city people can relate to either via a love of food, experience as or dreams of being a tree-changer, and just good entertainment ("massaging" - read bludgeoning - a ham with a something akin to a baseball bat in the name of creating a good prosciuto was particularly good fun).

And from agriculture's point of view he does not shy away from the facts of life - he visited an abattoir in episode two where his farmer friend explained the rural ethos of caring for the animals while alive but maintaining the realistic understanding that as much as one may become emotionally attached to an animal, and as sad as it is, the animal's purpose is to become food for humans.

Perhaps perversely, Evans "beautiful" refrain reminds us that there is beauty to be had in the cruel cycles of nature.

But the jury is still out as to how effective the program will be in penetrating the public's conciousness - without intending to sound snide, it is after all being aired on the least popular of the free-to-air stations.

The other problem is it's location - many mainland farmers will look at the setting and be reminded of a European cottage farm where a bit of everything lives on a small block and thrives in the colourful four seasons.

As pretty as it is, it's certainly a far cry from the bush I know, and certainly not reflective of how most Australian primary producers live and work.

However, from little things big things come and I am prepared to hope that this initial season of the show is successful enough to warrant further series - it is a good show and whether intending to or not, Evans is lending agriculture at large a helping hand.

* Gourmet Farmer airs on SBS at 7.30pm Thursdays, with replays available on the website.

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Date: Newest first | Oldest first
Well I for one am absolutely loving it. I agree that it is the perfect Australian version of "River Cottage", with a few less people hanging around. Makes me want to chuck it all in and do the same. Good work SBS !!
Posted by rachel m, 21/01/2010 1:07:25 PM
This show is a load of BS.
Posted by Get Real, 21/01/2010 3:07:48 PM
How can people supposedly like and care for an animal, then send it to an abattoir? Not for me thanks, anyone can live very well without all this needless cruelty and slaughter of animals.
Posted by Barker, 22/01/2010 8:11:17 AM
"Did I tell you I've given up my life in Sydney?" Yes you have for the fortieth time! And no you didn't catch that tuna by yourself! Passata! Whatever!
Posted by plumpy, 22/01/2010 9:42:10 PM
It's got nothing to do with modern agriculture. You don't have to leave the suburbs to experience the agriculture industry, just have a look around Brooklyn in Melbourne or Riverstone and Marsden Park in Sydney.
Posted by jeff, 23/01/2010 1:04:43 PM
I am totally enjoying the show. Not only because we went to primary school together, but because my husband and I just love Tasmania. Matthew certainly has a way with words and it is like he is inviting you into his kitchen with him. Those other people should really wake up and smell the prosciutto because we need more people like him on our screens to teach and entertain us. Keep up the good work.
Posted by Kathy, 3/02/2010 10:05:40 AM
The show has some good points, but the host is a long way from having the charm and charisma of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. He has a lot of money and is not afraid to spend it (his new vintage stove burner), so I find it a little impractical in some ways.
Posted by Jenn, 7/02/2010 10:44:24 AM
I think Matthew Evans TV show is great. Have enjoyed his recipes in Good Weekend for years - and they have been successful and liked by my family - his Tasmanian adventure is terrific - such a relief from all the many quasi chefs who battle it out with each other over a timer clock! I hope there will be another series - if he says beautiful one time too many that is Ok by me!! HIs cooking is great. M-L Stenstrom
Posted by M-L Stenstrom, 11/03/2010 7:56:29 PM
Those of you who post such unpleasant, negative comments would do well to be more honest about their own lives. Who killed the animals to make your shoes, belts and bags? Do you know where the dairy products that you consume came from and how the animals were treated? To be vegitarian is a lifestyle choice, so is it to be an omnivore. Mathew is very honest about the way he feels for his animals and honest about their purpose. Yes, they are to be eaten, but raised with care and kindness. When the time comes they are killed with minimal stress. This is a small sustainable home farm please stop comparing it to River Cottage. This is a show about Tasmania and the wonderful produce available here.
Posted by June D., 14/03/2010 5:07:04 AM
To June D, being a vegetarian is not a lifestyle choice, because meat eating harms others who cannot speak for themselves. Riding a bike, smoking, drinking, etc is a lifestyle choice because it only affects you, not me or anything else. I for one do know how animals are treated in meat production, hence I don't eat them. I seriously hope you don't think this show represents the meat industry, nowhere near it.
Posted by WTF, 15/03/2010 10:35:32 AM
The week observed
FarmOnline editor Michael Thomson's observations of the week's major rural news and what it means for rural Australia.
Former Sydney Morning Herald food critic Matthew Evans is the Gourmet Farmer.
Former Sydney Morning Herald food critic Matthew Evans is the Gourmet Farmer.
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Yes
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Total Votes: 647
Poll Date: 17 January, 2010
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